a month now past

 "The more prone to getting lost one is, the more one tries to compensate."
-Anna Funder, Stasiland: Stories from Behind the Berlin Wall

It's already been a month in Germany, and it naturally seems like only yesterday when I first stepped off the plane in Hamburg.  My feelings toward this country seem to constantly fluctuate, and my view of the world and its people are surely changing.  While I am beginning to finally know my way around the ancient tangled streets, my ability to function and truly integrate into the German culture is in constant flux.  As the fascination of being in another country comes to pass, the acceptance phase of otherness in the visited land begins.  My "American-ness" comes out in the least obvious of places.  While ordering a coffee and asking for directions have become second nature, washing my clothes, reading the newspaper, and even the pattern of eating have not yet become easy.  I find myself thinking about summer evenings in Bloomington, listening to folk and Americana, and yes...even the Superbowl.  While I was told that this stage of American sentimentality and nostalgia would come, and I knew that I became more patriotic from my European trip in 2006, it still came as a surprise.  After being so eager to delve right into a new world, how could I possibly be thinking about home?  Mind you, this is not homesickness.  You could not easily get me to leave this place--but the reality of life has begun to make itself apparent.  Maybe it's growing up or maybe it's me gaining more focus, I don't know.  My world, in ways, is becoming smaller but more diverse than it ever has been--after becoming closer to many Americans on this trip as well.  It will be sad to go home to the same country, yet be further separated than when abroad.  I am having conversations about home with people out on the street.  I am seeing the elderly walk and take the bus.  I am seeing people helping strangers in wheelchairs go down the street.  I see a community of folks, and as much as I'd like to be I am not one of those folks.  I am a guest of this country and will always be an American deep down.  And this is coming from a person hell-bent on claiming Canadian citizenship.  It is hard for me to explain this feeling--like an idealized image of what I imagine the United States as, and an observation of European culture (as well as the revolutionary fervor of the Middle East through the news) as I exist in limbo somewhere outside of all of it.  This isn't necessarily a bad thing.  It feels like I might be entering a cocooning phase or something.  My purpose for being here is not a clear as I once thought it was.  Sure I'm learning the German language and seeing all sorts of places...but the best things about Germany I want to keep with me while at the same time retain something American.  I want the folky community of Bloomington, the Great Lakes, a big forest to walk in.  Coops and organic crops do not abound here like in the USA.  But when I go home I want the energy of a people with a common goal, a comradery larger than the next clique based on which side of town a person lives on.  Sure in America we have a spirit for change, but it so often exists in words, not practice--especially in my age group.  Apathy is a killer and it's killing our society.  It's like Germans possess the revolutionary spirit, and it reminds me of what the USA should be.  We need to get stuff done!  Garden districts, a great train system, and a safe environment in the inner city would be nice!  In any case, my utopia is (not) impossible to achieve, yet I am closer to it than I have ever been.

An example of this glimpse of utopia lies outside the fancy architecture, beautiful women, and amazing candy.  It manifested itself during the past weekend in Hamburg.  My first trip there involved a walking tour of the city, a ride on a boat in the harbor, and a walk through a museum.  My view or a  dirty, cold, and trivial city with only Vegas-style fun was transformed through the people I met.  I visited some friends of a friend of a friend who live in Hamburg who were truly interesting.  While these people do not represent the larger German population or even humanity in general, the progressive conversations we had were exactly what I was looking for.  The trip involved walking the entire city, good and bad.  We entered a very progressive district where street art abounded, people were lively, and a spirit of youth and acceptance was present.  We also entered the red light district where prostitutes came up insisting upon the quality of their services.  It was quite an eye-opener.  In Germany, though, these women are taxpaying citizens and are thus respected in the society rather than revoked of their rights as human beings.  What made the experience special was to see many different sides of life in one place.  And while our friends had great hopes for their country, and strong opinions about ours, we did not always agree.  But this forum was exactly what the coming together of two cultures inspired and needed.  To at least understand each other and to respect each other for our differences.  It also served as a way to re-examine our own values.  And the hospitality I was shown was truly wonderful.

So as a person who often gets lost in thought, in direction, or literally in trying to get home; I realize that compensation only brings me further from the place I am looking for.  You can't fight the things you don't like when you are visiting, but you can take the spirit of the good wherever you go.  Sometimes when one least expects it, the place sought is often in eye's view.  Trust the flow.  You will go where you need to.  Or maybe it will find you.  The unknown is, after all, what makes things exciting.

Week 2

Well this last week's experience with orienteering proved to be a bit easier (I only got lost once).  I had my first week of normal class, and so far it has been really interesting and valuable.  We took our first test on Friday, and I must say that it was quite hard.  I haven't really taken tests for as long as I can remember.  I prefer and am used to writing big papers or doing art/video projects for my weightier grades.  Luckily there was a writing section on the test...that may redeem my lack of memorization of prepositions and past-tense verbs.

There is a kind of "official" activity we do: "Nur Deutsch Dienstag" (Only German Tuesday).  If we speak German the whole day through without using English, even when Germans try to speak English to us, we get a nice smiley-face sticker on a board.  As of yet, I have never seen this board nor have I been successful in speaking only German for the whole day.  I went about 2/3 and broke when I was hanging out with some Americans.  In any case, I usually speak German to Germans, and when they don't speak English, it is great.  Ordering food, meeting people at the coffee shop, or just talking to my roommates is not so hard.  I will admit that it is very easy to slip, though.  Communication always tries to find the easiest route. 

We went to Lübeck yesterday, and I had a pretty good time.  While it was cold, and we mostly wandered about, I got to go in a great bookstore and swiped up three books.  One was a Bavarian dialect dictionary/instruction book.  I think it is really funny and hopefully I can finally understand my Bavarian friends for once.  I found a book on my favorite artist, Hundertwasser, for only 10 euros, and Das Parfum by Patrick Süskind.  I've been excited to get some new books, and this is only the beginning!  Anyway, Lübeck has some cool gates and a nice big historical district.  There is also a nice river that runs around the town (it is an island), and I found some really nice graffiti on the bridges.  Ryan Air flies out of Lübeck, so I will probably return when making flights out of Germany, and also to see the torture museum!

I found the outdoor market this week and must say that it is wonderful.  I'm not going to buy produce at the grocery store again.  And organic food is actually affordable!  Today is Sunday, so most every business (besides small cafes) are closed.  It can be annoying if you forgot to pick something up at the store and then need it on Sunday.  I cannot cook eggs, for instance, because we are all out of oil/margarine/butter for the pan.

Some trips are going to be in order in the coming weeks, and you will soon hear about those as well.  Hamburg photos on the way, and the beginning of the documentary underway.

Auf Wiedersehen!

First Week in Lüneburg

I have been in Germany for 7 days now, and my German is getting better everyday.  It is the little things like ordering a meal or trying to ask for directions that are the biggest learning experiences.  While at first I was really nervous about speaking to Germans, it has proven to be very rewarding.  Even though mistakes are made, I always learn from them, and hopefully I will not be making any mistakes at the end of my time here.  People are very nice and understanding when I have trouble.
I have Brazilian, German, and American roommates, and they are all really great.  We speak German a lot and share our different cultural characteristics and ideas about each other.  For once, we have an organized chore list, so it is no longer me having to do all of the work in the apartment (as it was with every roommate I've ever had)  My room is furnished and is quite a bit bigger than I expected.  I haven't slept too well, but I think it has a lot to do with my messed up circadian rhythms.

My classes are going well, and I look forward to the coming weeks.  My German Cinema and Photography classes are both taught in English, which offers me a refreshing moment to relax and speak without any struggle.  I was bumped up to the advanced German level in my program, so the other classes are all in German and offer me a great challenge.  I will have to do presentations, homework "auf Deutsch" daily, and take a lot of pictures.  Speaking of which, I have been so busy getting accustomed to the new town, the cultural differences and trying to understand and speak German, I have not had time to actually go out and enjoy Lüneburg.  This will come in due time, but at the moment there are many orientation classes and policy meetings regarding my program.

I am going to Hamburg on Saturday with the other Americans for a walking tour.  I look forward to seeing the place of The Beatles' beginnings.  Otherwise I don't know much about it, so I will have a look at another part of Northern Germany, a place that I've never been.  Updates and pictures concerning this coming soon.

The bars here so far have been pretty cool.  There is a really grungy place called Jekyll and Hyde that I naturally am quite fond of.  There are always interesting people there...and broken glass/cigarettes all over the floor.  I met a Russian and a guy who grew up on Potsdam and East Berlin for the beginning of his life.  It was a unique moment in the history of the world--this is a day when people from the former USSR, DDR, and USA can sit in a bar in Lüneburg and happily drink and talk without harsh feelings and a strong dislike for anything fascist.  There is also a Hausbar akin to my favorite House Bar in Bloomington where people can just sit in couches and visit without music blaring and people everywhere.  Oh, and don't forget the Irish pub.  I'm not sure if it is more or less Irish than those in the USA (more Irish immigrants in America) but there is plenty of Guiness to go around while watching great music.

Now it's the weekend and time to enjoy some time without any homework to get in my way.  Stay tuned for my next report.

Tschüss!

Well, it's T-1.

I can't help but constantly recheck my flight itinerary, read Wikipedia articles on everything German, and think about my upcoming semester.  I'm anxious at a whole new level.  What's funny is that when I finally do get to the airport tomorrow, I'm going to be bored to death waiting for takeoff while failing to figure out the second clue on Myst DS--a daunting task.  I guess exploring that wondrous empty isle will mean a lot less to me, though.  By the time I arrive in Germany a day later, my jet-lagged self will be in quite a new reality with a whole continent of opportunity to explore, learn from, and understand.  Get ready Germany...seriously get ready! 

I managed to pack my bags with more books than I will ever need (since I'll definitely accumulate more in Europe), including various political writings by Marx and Jefferson, German travel guides and grammar books, textbooks on German cinema and photography, a book on Hundertwasser, and copies of Faust and The Little Prince to keep a bit of allegory in my life.  Perhaps you will find these books somewhere along your own travels, as I will be taking on the role of knowledge-sharer, dropping off these quality texts in various hostels across Europe.  Since the iPad has now realistically declared war on the book (eventually), we need to keep the ones we have circulating and alive.  I recommend sharing your own interesting things with the rest of the world.  There's something about tactility and craftsmanship that just can't be beat.


See you later United States of America.

Fröhliche Weinachten

It's Christmas.  Less than two weeks until the trip begins.  I'm almost ready to go.  The trip is paid for, I'm enrolled in classes, and I met my new roommates.  I got a Christmas card from my grandparents in German and slaughtered the translation...oh well.  Hopefully my German skills miraculously return because now it's survival mode.  That year off the language really took its toll...In any case,
Fröhliche Weinachten und gute Nacht!